Eager to Munch in Jungfrau

Switzerland is best enjoyed alone. Controversial perhaps, but many Romantic poets so fond of solitude felt similarly on their Grand Tours, not least Lord Byron, whose dedicatory plaques are littered up and down the country. In fact, his name pops up so frequently at sights of natural beauty, you’d think he was haunting your every move.

Like Caspar David Friedrich’s Wanderer Above the Sea of Fog, I first stumbled across the Jungfrau region on a solo Interrail trip in 2007. I’d left my passport in a hotel deposit box in Rome and was forced to take refuge in the mountains. Exploring Interlaken and Lauterbrunnen in search of an affordable youth hostel, I found myself staring up at the only glacial waterfalls in Europe, Trümmelbach Falls. The discovery was a spiritual awakening of sorts. Mother Nature in all her sublime glory, inspiring a mix of awe and fear, in the true Romantic model.

Returning to the region nearly twenty years later, I was glad to embrace some luxury at the Victoria-Jungfrau Hotel in Interlaken, the perfect hybrid of old-world charm and cutting-edge design. Boasting balcony views of the Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau mountain ranges (which magically disappear in certain weather conditions), the hotel is home to Stefan Beer’s spectacular, green-starred restaurant, Radius, where regional produce is sourced within fifty kilometres.

The hotel was originally built in the middle of the nineteenth century, a little too late for Lord Byron to enjoy, although I’m certain he would’ve stopped in for a full body massage and a bottle of Bernese pinot noir.

Truth be told, it’s worth travelling to Switzerland for the sole purpose of dining at Radius, even if that goes slightly against the point of an eco-conscious establishment. It’s earned all its badges - both a red and green Michelin star - and there’s a beautiful theatricality to many of the dishes on the local 8-course tasting menu. Centre stage is a weeping fig, but in terms of the food, this place is more greenhouse than hanging garden. Even dining alone, I enjoyed the science-lab vibes of smoky garlic lamb and a milky digestif served in a test tube. I couldn’t help noticing one of the dishes on the vegan menu was dubbed “Filip’s Watermelon Experiment,” again showcasing the playful and interactive feel of Stefan Beer’s cuisine.

Champagne is the only exception to the strict regional rules here, with both house-owned and more established vintages available. The Steiner Summerrode Sauvignon Blanc is a good bet for white drinkers, with a creamy nose not dissimilar to Mersault.

If you like your reds, you’ll want to sample the Hämmerli La Passion, an unusual barrel blend of Cabernet Dorsa and St Laurent, with a smoky blackberry palate that doesn’t upstage the food. Then again, a bottle of the Krebs Cuvée Deux Terres Extra Brut would probably see you through the whole menu. Its complexity is a good match for the opening amuse-bouche of chicken liver paté (with cherries and elderflower berries from the hotel garden) spread on Sontag züpfe sourdough, traditionally served on Sundays. A trio of wild garlic butter, fennel salt and vegan pesto makes for an intense tonsil experience, so go easy if you want to appreciate the delicacy of the perch “sardines” from Ringgenberg, with crunchy apple and sausage. The Oona caviar - from Switzerland’s first producer in Frutigen - was heavenly, served on a thin layer of beetroot and crème fraîche from the Meiringen region.

Not usually one for blue cheeses, I was impressed with the palatable mousse of the Sommerhimu, served with honey, quince and kale and walnut cantucci. And dessert was emotional, no bones about it. The most beautiful panna cotta, with honey and cornel cherries, decorated with a little Schmetterling (butterfly).

If you must bring your entourage, the Victoria-Jungrau is well equipped to cater. Most rooms, including many of the deluxe suites, come with top-of-the-range sofa beds for youngsters to kip down on. They’ll have access to top quality “edu-tainment” in the Bee House, a kids’ club to rival any other. Housed in a nineteenth century villa, the Bienehuus offers craft activities, play areas and chill-out spaces so you can lean into the wellness experience while the children keep their own hours.

The swimming facilities and mountain-facing infinity pool are exceptional, not to mention the new outdoor pool with vintage-style food van. Couples’ massage is available in a private spa with dining add-ons, and if you’re feeling fruity, you can even take a moment to relax in the naturist sauna.

Equally unforgettable is Victoria-Jungfrau’s onsite Italian offering, Sapori, housed in a ballroom and spilling out on to a wisteria-bordered terrace which overlooks the green (a haven for paragliders). The regional white beer, Jungfrau, comes highly recommended, as well as the cream of asparagus soup, which seems to combine all seasons in one, with the sunny warmth of egg yolk and the last shavings of winter truffle. A plate of beef carpaccio is enough to feed a family of four, and the house pizza, Miss Italia, is covered crust-to-crust in Parma ham and buffalo mozzarella. Its thick dough lends itself to pairing with a salad, such as the scampi and artichoke, and feel free to mop up the dressing. Despite the grandeur, this is not a stuffy establishment.

The view from Sapori restaurant

Rounding off the meal with an ubriaco or “drunken” apple sorbet, doused in fizz, and a mountain herb tea, you’ll then toddle giddily back to your palatial quarters, or take an evening stroll to Interlaken Castle, giving Hooters an emphatic skip.

L.S.

www.victoria-jungfrau.ch