Horse & Groom, Oddington

After bothering the kissing gates of Gloucestershire, whether or not you have stepped in a puddle right up to your middle, you’ll need some serious refuelling. You could attempt to muscle your way into an average and overpriced establishment in Bourton-on-the-Water (dubbed locally as the Piccadilly Circus of the Cotswolds) and if you’re lucky you might even have your mushy peas served in a teacup, but if you’re prepared to take a ten minute drive, you’ll discover the real Cotswolds at the Horse and Groom in Upper Oddington, and you won’t find more charming landlords than Warren and Norman.

The pub dates from 1584 and remained open during both world wars, not to mention during the pandemic when its current owners continued to serve the local community with their innovative menu of surf ‘n’ turf with a fusion twist. With Norman’s Asian heritage, the couple were inspired to bring popular sharing dishes to the table, such as gyoza, spring rolls, crispy fried chicken, and, one Christmas, dim sum famously prepared by Norman himself. Now one of Estrella’s top 50 gastro pubs, the Horse and Groom offers incredible tapas-style starters, exceptionally prepared meat and fish (including lobster), and a relaxed rural ambience you won’t find in Bourton, just six miles away.

For mains, the bone-in lemon sole was a no-brainer, with green beans, garlic tender stem broccoli and skin-on chips. My other half was persuaded away from steak in favour of flame-grilled Welsh lamb cutlets, which he wouldn’t see the like of at home. Both of us were eyeing up the sixteen-ounce Chateaubriand, but decided to save it until the children weren’t in attendance, happily grazing on penne.

Dessert was a decadent affair: an enormous slice of sticky toffee pudding (which proved enough for three to share), and a pineapple tarte tatin with coconut ice cream, another of Norman’s inventions.

I now have ambitions to return on a Sunday for a roast lunch and a full-crusted pie.

https://www.horseandgroomcotswolds.co.uk/