Review
Jacuzzi, a four-floor palazzo is a step up from Big Mamma’s more traditional laid-back
trattorias scattered around the capital. It’s Miami meets Milano, with unabashed levels of
indoor greenery.
The British high Street has long had a taste of la dolce vita, with restaurants such as The Ivy
becoming accessible to a range of budgets. At Jacuzzi, there is a similarly accessible vibe.
You can sip prosecco, take selfies in the hall-of-mirror-style bagni, and eat reasonably priced
caviar from the Veneto region all in a short day’s work. Alternatively, you can upgrade your
fizz to a glass of slightly drier Franciacorta and make a foray into the world of stuffed feta-
stuffed focaccia and showstopping chocolate fondue. In short, you can do you.
Jacuzzi’s spring menu features contemporary takes on perennial antipasti staples such as
kebab-style bresaola and burrata oozing with pistachio pesto. Wine by the bottle here is
high end, catering for seasoned gourmands with looser purse strings. A meal at Jacuzzi
appeals to our sense of the spectacular, from the dripping chandeliers to the rich red décor.
There is a nurturing instinct to the hospitality, in keeping with the Big Mamma brand. To my
great relief, our sommelier Giorgio agrees that Pinot Nero will complement the bavette
steak just as well as white meats. The meat is tender with an earthy charcoal edge, and the
wine lends a morello cherry sweetness to proceedings. My companion, Madame P, selects
fried artichoke, and whilst we are expecting a fiddly affair, the carciofo with freshly sliced
truffle involves no pruning. We share the steak and artichoke with a side of spinach
between us, and still have ample room for dolci.
Here, Giorgio valiantly steps in with the most exquisite Moscato D’Asti, described as ‘Elton
John in a bottle’. Perhaps ‘Bowie in a bottle’ would be more accurate: chilled, peachy and
full of stardust. But nothing prepares me for the true star of the evening, the breathtaking
pistachio profiterole with pistachio ice-cream, hazelnut cream and chocolate sauce, which is
truly exceptional.
94 Kensington High St, London W8 4SJ. A two-course meal with aperitif, wine and digestif
comes in at about £100 pp. www.bigmammagroup.com
Ingredients
Preparation
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